Evening aperitivo walk

Order matters less than timing. Start at Tabarro when it opens at 5:30 p.m., move to Enoteca Fontana around 6:30 p.m. when the street fills, and finish with food at Ombre Rosse. Or reverse it if you want to eat early.

Tabarro is the wine bar at the Piazza Garibaldi end of the street, at number 5/b. Its own site gives the hours: Monday to Friday 5:30 p.m. to 1 a.m., Saturday noon to 3 p.m. and 5:30 p.m. to 1 a.m. It is closed on Sundays. The food runs from salumi and cheese boards to horse tartare and oysters, with a few Peruvian dishes. It prints no price list online; the most recent review we found, from June 2026, paid €14 for two glasses. Phone +39 0521 200223.

Enoteca Fontana at Strada Farini 24/A has been pouring since 1967, and it is the cheapest and most local stop. Long shared wooden tables inside, a few outside, and a lot of standing. Reviews from March and June 2026 report glasses at €2 to €3. Order a glass of Lambrusco and the Principe, a sandwich with culatello. The enoteca has no website and publishes no hours, so check on the day.

Ombre Rosse is round the corner at Borgo Tommasini 18, with a second entrance on Vicolo Giandemaria 4. It is where to sit down and eat. Its wine list, dated April 9, 2026, prices bottles mostly between €16 and €30, with 20% off to take away; glass prices are not printed. The food side, Ombre Mosse, opens Thursday to Monday, 12:30 p.m. to 3 p.m. and 7 p.m. to 11 p.m. Prices from its menu: a tris of salumi €12, a large board €20, cheeses €15, pesto di cavallo €8 and tortelli di erbetta €13. Phone or WhatsApp +39 0521 289575.

Using the reported prices: one glass at Enoteca Fontana (€2–€3), one at Tabarro (about €7) and a shared €12 salumi board at Ombre Rosse come to roughly €15–€16 a person for two people. Add a second glass and it is €20 or so. That is aperitivo as dinner, which is what many visitors on a budget do; see Parma on a budget.

For comparison, on Strada Cavour, Caffè Cavour's December 2023 menu lists a spritz at €6 standing and €7 at a table, and wine by the glass from €5.

• Dinner: Osteria dei Mascalzoni is about 250 m from Piazza Garibaldi, with primi at €14 in the evening. Trattoria del Tribunale on Vicolo Politi is the classic choice; book both.
• A cocktail: Choice, at Borgo della Cavallerizza 7/A near the Pilotta, is a 14-seat cocktail bar open from 6 p.m.; the Identità Golose guide puts cocktails at about €12.
• A beer: Bastian Contrario, the brewpub at Strada Inzani 34/A across the river, opens at 6 p.m. daily. It is on our Oltretorrente walk.

The street is lively until late and people live above it; keep the volume down after midnight. If you are choosing a hotel, our Strada Farini page covers noise.